

| Sign in: |
| Members log in here with your user name and password to access the your admin page and other special features. |
|
|
|

|
|| SportsShooter.com: Member Message Board

Help!! My D1X's CCD is very dirty.
 
Dan Beineke, Photographer
 |
Cincinnati | OH | USA | Posted: 10:00 PM on 01.23.04 |
| ->> Could anyone give me advice on cleaning the CCD in my camera. |
|
 
Charles Gawlik, Photographer
 |
San Diego | CA | USA | Posted: 12:30 AM on 01.24.04 |
->> Dan, I feel your pain. After the brush fires in Southern California I went and did some landscape images using my D1X; later while looking at those images I was horrified to see large chunks of ash that needed removing from every image. I ended up purchasing a Spec Grabber by Kinetronics Corp (I think at kinetronics.com) and spent hours using it and then taking an image and cleaning again. It took hours and I eventually removed the offending ash from the sensor area (that bothered me). And as I was looking for information on the Spec Grabber I found a link at:
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/essays/sensor-cleaning.shtml
So have fun and if all else; take it to the shop for pro-cleaning.
Charles Gawlik
www.mystphoto.com |
|
 
Greg Ferguson, Photographer
 |
Scottsdale | Az | USA | Posted: 1:57 AM on 01.24.04 |
->> You might as well learn to clean the sensor yourself. No shop will guarantee they get all the dust off the sensor, not even Nikon.
It's not that hard to do, just take your time and be gentle.
Dust is most visible when you're using small aperatures, and is probably why it showed up after shooting landscapes. |
|
 
Mike Leakey, Photographer
 |
Noblesville | IN | USA | Posted: 7:37 AM on 01.24.04 |
| ->> Also check out http://www.bythom.com/cleaning.htm . I've used this method on my D100 and, just yesterday, my D2H's. It takes a while to get the hang of it but works pretty well. |
|
 
Greg Ferguson, Photographer
 |
Scottsdale | Az | USA | Posted: 6:58 PM on 01.24.04 |
->> I have to clean mine regularly, because I'm always working in the dirt.
When I clean I'll adjust the camera to increase contrast and sharpening, set my aperature at f22, and shoot a blank white surface. I've used a sheet of paper, a blank wall, and even created a blank white document in Photoshop that covered my laptop screen. Take a shot of the white, and let the camera expose normally. Then zoom into the image on the LCD and scan the entire frame to see if any dust shows up. I can easily see the particles when I do that. It's a lot easier and faster than opening the image in Photoshop.
Then, I use the "bythom" method to clean. Usually it takes several passes to get the particles off, because usually the second or third pass moves a fibre from the pecwipe to the sensor, causing me to gnash my teeth and cuss.
As I said before, if you're shooting small aperatures then you'll see the dust a lot easier. If you're shooting wide open it'll take a big particle to show up. |
|
 
Hassel Weems, Photographer
 |
Locust Grove (Atanta) | GA | USA | Posted: 10:27 PM on 01.24.04 |
| ->> I use Eclipse on Pec Pads wrapped around a cut-down spatula. Basically the bythom method. Works great. |
|
 
 
Dan Beineke, Photographer
 |
Cincinnati | OH | USA | Posted: 12:00 PM on 01.28.04 |
| ->> Thanks for your comments. |
|


Return to --> Message Board Main Index
|