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|| SportsShooter.com: Member Message Board

Old Nikon needs repair
 
Bryan Crowe, Photographer
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Fullerton | CA | US | Posted: 9:25 PM on 05.12.15 |
->> I have an ancient AF1 300 2.8 that needs some TLC and parts. I know this has been discussed before but was wondering if anyone would recommend a good independent for a tuneup ? Possible in So Cal. Thanks in advance. |
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PJ Heller, Photographer
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Christchurch | NZ | | Posted: 3:35 AM on 05.13.15 |
->> Not in California, but you might give Authorized Photo Service a call to see if they can help.
Authorized Photo Service
8125 River Drive, Ste 100
Morton Grove, IL 60053
Phone: 847-966-4091
Web: nikoncamerarepair.com |
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Steven E. Frischling, Photographer
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New England | | | Posted: 8:42 AM on 05.13.15 |
->> Midstate Camera Repair, in Warwick, RI. +1(401) 467-7390 |
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Corey Perrine, Photographer
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Naples | FL | USA | Posted: 8:03 PM on 05.13.15 |
->> +1 Midstate
They repared an old 1930-40's Burke & James for me a few years back. Still working. |
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Osamu Chiba, Photographer
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Keith Birmingham, Photographer
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Matthew Hinton, Photographer
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New Orleans | LA | USA | Posted: 3:34 PM on 05.17.15 |
->> Just an FYI. With the some of the newer digital camera bodies older lenses just don't seem to work properly no matter how many times you have them repaired. It's seem like the lens are incompatible with the newer auto-focus algorithms and you end up having to stop down a f2.8 to f5.6 for good autofocus, which defeats the point of having a f2.8. Might work well with manual focus or shooting in single shot mode but not in continuous high speed at 9-11 frames per second.
Also film-designed lens tend to have major vignetting in the corners of the full-frame sensors. It's just the nature of the angle of the light waves hitting the digital sensor. If the angle is off the sensor doesn't get as much light in the corners compared to the rest of the frame. Newer lenses designed after film have been designed to make correct angles with the corners of digital sensors.
The Af-I 300mm lens was released in 1992 and ceased production in 1996. The first digital Nikon readily available to a mass market was the D1 in 1999.
http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/serialno.html#300
When the lens ceased production the top of the line film body, the Nikon F5, shot at 8fps. So use 8fps or even much lower as a starting point for continuous focus.
And glass ages and gets dusty. Short of replacing elements you can't always bring the lens up to snuff. |
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Mark Goldman, Photographer
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Silver Spring | MD | USA | Posted: 10:36 PM on 05.17.15 |
->> Just a quick counter to some of Matthew's comment. I am using an old 28mm/f2 manual focus lens on a Nikon D4s, D3s and D3 as a basketball remote lens. The lens was made in the late 60's. Tack sharp, no vignetting and beautiful color saturation. Similarly, I use a 180mm/f2.8 manual focus lens on the same cameras as a hockey remote from the catwalk. The images are beautiful. You can get really good and comprehensive lens survey information from Bjørn Rørslett at his website: http://www.naturfotograf.com/lens_surv.html. Hope that this helps. |
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