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|| SportsShooter.com: Member Message Board
24x36 prints
Debra L Rothenberg, Photographer
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New York | NY | USA | Posted: 7:51 PM on 06.24.10 |
->> HI all,
just wondering if anyone has made prints this large from Digital files (D3/s).
Did you use Geniune Fractals or another program? |
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Isaac Ginsberg, Student/Intern, Photographer
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Seattle | WA | U.S.A | Posted: 7:55 PM on 06.24.10 |
| ->> I have made 20x40's from my D300 Without a problem. I went through WHCC, but no, I did not use a program. |
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Butch Miller, Photographer
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Lock Haven | PA | USA | Posted: 8:06 PM on 06.24.10 |
| ->> I have made several prints and canvas wraps that size from D200 and D300 files resizing to the printer's specs (also WHCC) in PS directly and the final products are quite nice ... so with D3 files ... I'd say you are good to go ..... |
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Duane Burleson, Photographer
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Sterling Heights | MI | USA | Posted: 8:21 PM on 06.24.10 |
->> Depends on what you are printing on. If on a inkjet, I use photoshop bicubic to resize images up to 200 dpi in steps of about 15% until you reach final size. If you are sending them out and the lab prints on a LightJet printer I let the lab size the image to your final size. The LightJet has a great built in hardware interpolation to size the image.
Cheers,
Duane |
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Jim Pierce, Photographer
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Waltham | MA | USA | Posted: 8:21 PM on 06.24.10 |
->> Debra,
Just did a few 30x40, also from WHCC, and they came out great. these were with a mark IV largest file size cropped in PS with some slight editing of color/brightness nothing special, the basics.
You should have no problems
Jim |
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Israel Shirk, Photographer, Assistant
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Boise | ID | US | Posted: 8:34 PM on 06.24.10 |
| ->> I run 24x36's a lot from a MkII-N, cropped in a bit, then resized, then sharpened. They come out great every time (sharp as a tack up close!), and I think they tend to be around 6-7 MP before resizing. I just use unsharp mask and smart sharpen as appropriate. |
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Mike Doran, Photographer
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Petaluma | CA | U.S.A. | Posted: 10:26 PM on 06.24.10 |
| ->> The biggest prints iI have made from a Mark II N were 4ft. by 6ft and they were stunning. The biggest print I made from my Mark III is 24 x 36 and they were sharpened and had the levels adjusted. I had the 4ft prints done at Ferrari Color in Sacramento and the smaller prints printed by MPIX Pro. |
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Hal Smith, Photographer
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Sedalia | MO | USA | Posted: 11:17 PM on 06.24.10 |
| ->> I have made 24x36 inch prints through RrintRoom.com with great results. At 200ppi by 24x36 I could see any artifacts or jagged edges. |
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Louis Lopez, Photographer
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Fontana | CA | USA | Posted: 3:36 AM on 06.25.10 |
| ->> I have printed 20x30 just cropping to that size in photoshop frm D3 and D2xs cameras and the prints all looked great. no issues. |
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Martin McNeil, Photographer
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East Kilbride | Lanarkshire | United Kingdom | Posted: 3:51 AM on 06.25.10 |
->> It's more to do with viewing distance than it is any single PPI / DPI number
The average human eye is able to resolve detail to about 1.75mm at a distance of 20 feet*; this would translate to about 29 pixels (dots) per inch resolution, assuming the viewer was no closer.
From this, we can work out that
10 feet needs 58 ppi
5 feet needs 116 ppi
2 feet needs 290 ppi
1 foot needs 580 ppi
An uncropped Nikon D3 shot has 4256 horizontal pixels. If we divide that number by 36 - being the print size Debra wants - it comes to 118.2 pixels per inch; therefore, it should appear quite sharp at around five feet viewing distance... all assuming average 20/20 vision.
*source = http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Visual_acuity |
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Jeff Snyder, Photographer
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Metro DC Region | MD | USA | Posted: 9:44 AM on 06.25.10 |
->> I have 30x40's made from a D3 file....via AdoramaPix.com
They look gorgeous... |
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Nate Ryan, Student/Intern, Photographer
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Northfield | MN | | Posted: 11:57 AM on 06.25.10 |
| ->> Two weeks ago, I printed a 30x45 inch print from my D300 through WHCC. I did all my toning and burning/dodging in Lightroom 3 then exported to a high-quality jpg, 240ppi at 30x45 inches. The result looked very good, with many fewer artifacts than photoshop when I compared digital files. I did start to notice some softness on edges in the print, but only noticeable at a much closer viewing distance than would be expected for so large a print. |
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Phil Hawkins, Photographer
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Fresno | ca | usa | Posted: 4:21 PM on 06.25.10 |
| ->> Sure, if you start your workflow from a RAW file with that in mind it's no big deal at all. |
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Debra L Rothenberg, Photographer
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New York | NY | USA | Posted: 7:24 PM on 06.25.10 |
->> thanks everyone
what is WHCC? Is that White House labs? |
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Darron Silva, Photographer
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Granite Falls | NC | USA | Posted: 9:41 PM on 06.25.10 |
| ->> Yesh, it's white house custom color. I've done 30 x 40 prints with whcc from 5d raw files, at 300 dpi, and they look great. I agree with Phil -starting with a raw file is a huge help. I use photoshop's raw converter to uprez, and it works considerably better than uprezzing in Photoshop. Canon's software delivers great results as well as a raw converter, but it is dog slow. |
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Robert Longhitano, Photographer
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Philadelphia | PA | USA | Posted: 10:13 PM on 06.25.10 |
->> Debra,
I've printed hundreds of 24x36 prints on my Epson 7880. No need for any type of Geniune Fractals software. I've gotten great results using jpg files from D3 and D2Hs bodies. I just use Photoshop and set the image size 24x36 180 or 200 dpi. I do the same thing when prepping files to send to my lab as well with fantastic results.
rob |
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Stanley Leary, Photographer
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Roswell | GA | USA | Posted: 10:18 PM on 06.25.10 |
| ->> I have prints up to 4' x 6' and they were processed with Lightroom 3. Big improvement for processing engine. |
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