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|| SportsShooter.com: Member Message Board
Motion Blur and Multiple Exposures
Robby Gallagher, Student/Intern, Photographer
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Brookings | SD | USA | Posted: 2:48 AM on 03.12.10 |
->> So I checked out the rest of the board and I am not really finding what I am looking for. So I thought I would go ahead and ask the board...
First of all, motion blur. I was asked in an interview if I like to use motion blur to change up my photos a bit. I knew what he was talking about but I don't know exactly how to do it. It is easy for me to do it at night, but what settings would you suggest I use in broad day light?
Next, multiple exposures. I noticed this in an Winter Olympics photo and one of the clip winners had one of someone doing the long jump. Now I know this is going to sound stupid, but are they actually one photo or multiple photos put together? I guess I just don't understand it.
Please hold back the laughs
Thanks! |
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Chris Parent, Student/Intern, Photographer
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Baton Rouge | LA | United States | Posted: 3:29 AM on 03.12.10 |
->> Nikon cameras have a built in Multiple exposures menu that allows you to shoot two (or how ever many frames) and have them combined in camera. Canon's don't have that feature. So your option then becomes combining two pictures in photoshop and editing there.
Motion blur is just banning with a subject and blurring certain parts of the the image. I do it for basketball and baseball some when I find myself with an extra amount of time. Basically find an exposure, say 1/25 and then match your ISO and aperture to that exposure. During the day, that means high F stops, which give you a better chance of in focus images, as the focus area is larger. Doing it at night, or indoors can be really tricky, it just takes timing and luck.
Here is an example of the blurring indoors. I don't have any up from daytime, sorry. Hope that helps, if you have more specific questions, you can email me if you want.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/chrisparent/4193224765/ |
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Chuck Steenburgh, Photographer
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Lexington | VA | USA | Posted: 6:33 AM on 03.12.10 |
->> I find 1/25 a bit slow for me...I typically will shoot ~ 1/100. Much less "blur" in the image, of course, but also a much better chance of sharper subject (usually head/face, as the arms and feet are of course moving irregularly through the panning area). Got a couple of examples of daylight panning here:
http://www.sportsphotoguy.com/portfolio/Football/index.html
Notice the difference in subject sharpness between the 1/60 image and the one shot at 1/100. I also used a VR (IS) lens for these shots, it helps reduce the vertical shake (but not horizontal, which is what you want) while panning.
There are a couple of ways you could do multiple exposures "in camera." One is with a multiple-exposure setting, with flash; the other would be with stroboscopic flash. Flash is required because it will be needed to fully light your subject. Here I know the theory but my experience with this in practice is very limited, so I will let others try to explain it. |
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Charles Mann, Photographer
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Danny Munson, Photographer
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Jeff Stanton, Photographer
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