| Sign in: |
| Members log in here with your user name and password to access the your admin page and other special features. |
|
|
|
|
|| SportsShooter.com: Member Message Board
Secure Gear Storage Options
Mark Peters, Photographer
 |
Highland | IL | USA | Posted: 10:42 AM on 12.06.09 |
->> Reading Margaret's thread on being robbed, I began thinking of the best way to store gear securely.
I do have insurance, but was wondering what others are doing for secure storage - if anything.
I've considered gun safes, refrigerators, steel cabinets, dry boxes and regular safes. Big gun safes are quite expensive, large and heavy. Dry boxes are really expensive (but do solve humidity problems). If you're storing gear in the basement, an old fridge with a hinge lock attached actually isn't a bad choice (I knew an international level competitive shooter that stored his pistols this way - he figured it was less conspicuous.) Smaller safes are more affordable - Sentry makes a 4.3 cu ft. one for around $600.
I have two bodies and nine lenses, the largest being a 300/2.8. Right now, I've narrowed it down to two choices:
Both are Stack On products. The first is their larger Pistol/Ammo cabinet. Heavy gauge steel, key locked and run about $100 delivered. Two removable shelves.
Dimensions:
21"W x 10"D x 18"H
Shelf Dimensions:
20-13/16"W x 8-1/4"D
Weight:
28.5 lbs. (12.9 kg)
The second is their Super-Sized, Strong Box Safe with Electronic Lock with is about $125 delivered.
Dimensions:
13-3/4"W x 13"D x 19-11/16"H
Internal Body Size
(not including door):
13.592"W x 11.484"D x 19.155"H
Shelf Dimensions:
13.38"W x 8.75"D
Shipping Weight:
48 lbs. (22 kg) |
|
Tim Snow, Photographer
|
Montreal | Qc | Canada | Posted: 10:47 AM on 12.06.09 |
| ->> I leave everything locked in a Think Tank Airport International chained with a beefy Master chain/lock thing to an iron bar drilled to the studs in the closet in my office, a keyed lock to get into the office with the house locked, all bundled with a motion detector alarm on the house. If they can still get the gear after that...I`m sure someone determined can, but it`ll take lots of effort! |
|
Jeff Martin, Photographer
|
Jamey Price, Student/Intern, Photographer
|
Charlotte | NC | USA | Posted: 12:15 PM on 12.06.09 |
->> ^^ Sounds like Fort Knox!
I would suggest something that will be too much of a hastle for them to get at, like the above post. Or spend on a home/office alarm system. Home alarms are a great option because not only do they deter simply by you having an alarm system sign outside your home but theyre loud so if someone breaks in, the neighbors will know and usually the alarm company will call, if no one picks up, the cops are on their way. Of course they can still get at the gear but not before waking the neighborhood and alerting the cops. |
|
Mark Peters, Photographer
|
Highland | IL | USA | Posted: 12:27 PM on 12.06.09 |
| ->> I have an alarm system, but I'm not in town, so it's county sheriff response, these are 2 acre lots, so 200 ft. between the houses and the back of my house has a ton of windows. |
|
Ron Metz, Photographer
|
Tampa | FL | USA | Posted: 2:17 PM on 12.06.09 |
| ->> Consider two Pelican Model 1610 cases. Padlock the cases and then chain both together and then to a permanent structure. No guarantees but it will definitely slow them down and they will think twice about dragging those heavy suckers out of any residence. |
|
Mike Brice, Photographer
|
Ogden | UT | USA | Posted: 3:29 PM on 12.06.09 |
->> A gun safe secured to the structure would seem to be the best best.
For me, an alarm system and insurance - and files backed up in cloud storage (Photoshelter and Amazon S3) is what I prefer. |
|
Dave Breen, Photographer
|
Somerset | PA | USA | Posted: 3:42 PM on 12.06.09 |
| ->> What does anyone use in a vehicle? (I think it's been discussed, but I don't readily find the thread.) |
|
Eric Canha, Photographer
|
Brockton | MA | United States | Posted: 4:47 PM on 12.06.09 |
| ->> Mark look around for a used gun safe. Look in the usual places but also consider estate sales and consignment shops. I also like alarms, http://www.sportsshooter.com/ericcanha/baron/pages/1.html now retired however in his day he was one of the best I've ever had. I've had only one that was fiercer, but was a 1:1 security/companion animal that could not be left with anyone. |
|
Alan Look, Photographer
|
Bloomington/Normal | IL | United States | Posted: 5:21 PM on 12.06.09 |
->> good gun safes should also resolve humidity problems.
They do need to be anchored. A neighbor of mine was broken into. His was in his garage. They pulled it out into the driveway to try and pry it open. Fortunately, they didn't get in it. I'm sure if they were prepared, they'd have hauled it away in a truck. |
|
Mark Peters, Photographer
|
Highland | IL | USA | Posted: 9:05 PM on 12.06.09 |
| ->> I found a used Sentry 2 cu. ft. fire safe on Craig's list for $175 this afternoon. My bodies, lenses and speedlite's just fit in. This will work for now. |
|
Curtis Clegg, Photographer
|
Sycamore | IL | USA | Posted: 7:47 AM on 12.07.09 |
->> Mark I looked a the Stack-On gun safes and I almost bought one but I didn't like the idea of having yet another key to carry around. I wanted a safe with a keypad, and a key backup in case the battery went bad.
I ended up getting this 1.8 cubic foot one on eBay:
http://tinyurl.com/ebay-safe
and I'm pretty happy with it. Construction is similar to the Stack-On (thick stamped sheet metal, with the option to anchor it to the floor) but I like the keypad. Free shipping too.
The Sentry fire safe you found sounds good too, but fire safes are extremely heavy since they use cement (or something very similar) as the insulator. The weight adds an extra level of theft deterrence, but they are also a pain to move. |
|
Ron Manfredi, Photographer
 |
Merrick (Long Island) | NY | | Posted: 8:59 AM on 12.07.09 |
| ->> The Stack On units carry the warning "Not recommended for storing CDs or other electronic storage devices. " What is that about? (Thinking about the memory cards in the cameras.) |
|
Paul Montague, Photographer
|
Swisher | IA | USA | Posted: 4:30 PM on 12.07.09 |
->> There's a difference between "fireproof" and "heat proof". While fireproof safes will prevent paper from burning, they won't necessairly prevent plastic from melting.
The warning probably alludes to that. |
|
Mark Peters, Photographer
|
Highland | IL | USA | Posted: 5:33 PM on 12.07.09 |
->> Curtis - it weighed in at 136 lbs, which was a little heavier than I wanted, but still doable.
I did buy it primarily for the security and not the "fireproof" aspect of it. If I'm reading the specs correctly, it protects against 1700 degree heat for one hour - but I believe that means the internal temperature does not go above 350 - at which point I imagine the gear is getting damaged anyway - let alone the damage from dropping through the second floor.... |
|
Eric Canha, Photographer
|
Brockton | MA | United States | Posted: 9:25 PM on 12.07.09 |
->> Mark, as a former firefighter PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE do not install the safe UPSTAIRS. I'm not saying to install it in the basement but at least consider somewhere on the first floor. In the case of a house fire rarely will the firefighters be in the basement,they will be on the first floor.
IF someone DOES install a safe in an upstairs location and a fire does break out PLEASE make sure that you inform the fire chief on scene. Even after the fire is out a weakened floor can give way while the fd is mopping up and kill those below it. There are ways of installing a safe in s second story safely (no pun). Fireproof cement board that spans several joists and can spread the load is one method. There are others that require special brackets and more importantly knowledge on the load, location, and construction involved.
Just something that many people don't think about. |
|
Mark Peters, Photographer
|
Highland | IL | USA | Posted: 9:56 PM on 12.07.09 |
->> Eric -
It's directly over the toilet in the guest bath - hopefully they won't feel the need during a blaze! |
|
Return to --> Message Board Main Index
|