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|| SportsShooter.com: Member Message Board

Anyone Using Cybersyncs? I have a question for you..
 
David Welker, Photographer, Student/Intern
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Springfield | MO | USA | Posted: 11:56 PM on 11.17.09 |
->> I love my cybersyncs and have never had a problem with them. I love that they do almost everything that the PW's do in a smaller, and sleeker way. I can trigger my remote with them, however this is where I run into the problem as well and I wanted to see if anyone had any suggestions as to where to go with this.
I have a set up in mind, I know it works as I have set it up before but I can not remember how I pulled it off.
The set up includes:
2 b800s (1 triggered by CSRB, the other optically - this may change and they both will soon be triggered by the CSRB)
a remote 40d that is triggered by a CSRB, via a mono to mono cable that plugs into a part in my cable release (the cable release can pull apart into 3 pieces and attaches by mono).
2 transmitters
What I would like to do is be able to use a trigger on my 1d, to trigger both the 40d and the lights at the same time, however after trying this tonight, I ran into a syncing problem. I have read Robert Beck's post on remotes however since that is directed towards PW's I am stuck in this situation.
So any ideas?
Thanks everyone. |
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Eric Canha, Photographer
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Brockton | MA | United States | Posted: 8:48 AM on 11.18.09 |
->> David I haven't tried it with Buff's stuff and am considering a similar setup. I think that the issue that you run into is the delay between the time your 1d triggers the 40d and the 40d and CSRB process the input.
For me I plan to use one csrb on the body with a zebra cable and a cst on the body's hotshoe to fire the strobes (on a different channel). That way when I fire the remote the hotshoe strobe sync will be no different than if I was just working a portrait session.
The PW's allow you to play with delays to clean up the timing differences. The units that I have don't allow for that, maybe the Cyber Commander does this. You may want to call their techs. The 3 times that I've called they've been SUPER helpful. |
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David Welker, Photographer, Student/Intern
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Springfield | MO | USA | Posted: 9:45 AM on 11.18.09 |
->> eric,
thanks for your opinion. I think you are correct about the delay. I emailed pcb last night to attempt to gain answers. So do you think I need a transmitter on the remote body? |
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Eric Canha, Photographer
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Brockton | MA | United States | Posted: 9:59 AM on 11.18.09 |
->> I do. If you place cst on the remote body then the sync from the remote to the strobes wouldn't suffer any timing lags. It would be no different than if you were shooting in the studio with a 40d/cst and 2 B800 on csrb's the difference being that in the studio YOU push the shutter release and in the remote system that I am describing the shutter is set off by a csrb.
The thing to remember is that you have to be on separate channels for the 40d to strobes and 40d to 1d which means that your 1d won't be able to use the strobes that are set to sync with the 40d.
My system allows me to trigger a D2Xs on the backboard and have it sync to my strobes on the floor. I have D3's on the floor so no need for the strobes for them. If you need the strobes for the 1d AND the 40d you have a fly in the ointment.
I think I mis-read your post the first time around and missed that you are trying to use the b800's for both bodies. |
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David Welker, Photographer, Student/Intern
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Springfield | MO | USA | Posted: 10:16 AM on 11.18.09 |
->> here is what the PCB manual says:
under the USING CYBERSYNC TO ACTUATE THE SHUTTER OF YOUR CAMERA, SECOND CAMERA OR REMOTE CAMERA section:
"A major consideration when using CyberSync to trip a camera is the fact that the camera has a few milliseconds of delay between the instant it receives a trip command and the time the mirror flips up and the shutter is opened. Because of this delay, you cannot use the same CST signal that trips the camera to fire your flash units. The flash units would fire before the shutter is open and you will have no exposure. But there is an easy remedy: Set the CST transmitter that will trip the camera on a certain frequency (call it Frequency A). Use the same frequency on the CSR or CSRB that will trip the camera via remote cable. Place a second CST on the hotshoe of your camera and set it to a different frequency (Call it Frequency B). Use Frequency B on the CSR or CSRB receiver(s) that are connected to your light(s).
When you press the test button on CST A it will trip the camera. As soon as the camera responds and opens its shutter it will send a trigger signal from CST B on its hotshoe. This will fire the lights on Frequency B in sync with the camera shutter."
Now the problem I see with this is will I be able to trigger the two b800s with my 1dmkII (not the remote) as well as the remote?
From what I see the only remedy to this is to use one light optically and the other on a receiver. But then one camera couldnt trigger the lights. So I am stuck in this predicament. |
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David Welker, Photographer, Student/Intern
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Springfield | MO | USA | Posted: 10:29 AM on 11.18.09 |
| ->> heck maybe I just need to buy a third and fourth light to use hehe. fire each of those optically. who knows. |
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Eric Canha, Photographer
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Brockton | MA | United States | Posted: 10:37 AM on 11.18.09 |
->> ---->Now the problem I see with this is will I be able to trigger the two b800s with my 1dmkII (not the remote) as well as the remote?
No.
The quote that you posted is what I was saying also. So yes you should look into another set of lights...... Or maybe it's time for a few mk4's and you can skip the strobes.
That's my plan, a new D3s and I can put one of the D3's up as a remote @ 5000 iso, strobes be damned. |
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David Welker, Photographer, Student/Intern
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Springfield | MO | USA | Posted: 10:51 AM on 11.18.09 |
->> Eric,
Thanks for your help. Unfortunately, I don't have the money for a new camera body, especially the 1d4 right now. In a few months I may be able to squeeze a used 1dIII however, which might work just the same.
If I had the money to run both a nikon and canon system Id look into the d3s. Some of Robert Beck's boxing photos and they look terrific.
Anyway, Thanks again for your help. |
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David Welker, Photographer, Student/Intern
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Springfield | MO | USA | Posted: 11:36 AM on 11.18.09 |
->> It seems as I have gotten my answers:
From Tech at PCB-
" Thanks for contacting us! Although the remotes were built to fire flash units they just so happen to be able to trigger a camera shutter. For doing this, you will need a dedicated CST transmitter (to hand hold) and a CSRB receiver connected to the cameras pc terminal via a shutter release cable. We do not sell the shutter release cable but you can find them here at Flash Zebra http://www.flashzebra.com/shutter_pw/index.shtml. The CST and CSRB for firing the camera must be set on a different frequency than the CST that is on the hotshoe and the receivers on the lights. The reason you need a separate CST and CSRB is, if you have one transmitter in hand, sending a signal to both the camera and lights, the lights fire as the shutter and mirror are moving, and are done by the time the camera is ready to make an exposure. This is why you are having the syncing issues.
The way to avoid this is treat it as two separate actions requiring their own equipment; one action to fire the camera, and one action to fire the lights.
I hope this info helps. Please let us know if you have anymore questions or need anything else."
So Eric, It seems like I might just pick up that 1dIII when the 1dIV comes out. I expect to see prices right around 1999 or so for a nice used one. |
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Brian Schneider, Student/Intern, Photographer
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Clemson | SC | | Posted: 12:26 PM on 11.18.09 |
->> David,
I'm glad you figured this out. I have a transmitter and receiver and up until this year I haven't shot with strobes so I was using mine to fire a remote camera. I just ordered another set this morning before seeing this thread and I thought you might have to do that which is why I got the second transmitter. Let me know how it works out and I'll post also when I get to try it out.
Brian
www.ebrianschneider.com |
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Eli Lucero, Photographer
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Logan | UT | USA | Posted: 1:00 PM on 11.18.09 |
->> You don't need another set of lights, you can use one set of lights for both your remote and your handheld camera you just need another transmitter. I do this all the time with the old PW Plus. You won't be able to fire both cameras at the same time with the lights, you will have to choose which shot you want, the remote or your handheld.
To set it up you will need a receiver on each light and a receiver and a transmitter on the remote camera, with two transmitters with you on the floor, one to fire your lights from the handheld one to fire your remote camera and strobes.
Set your strobes to say channel 4. Then on your remote camera set the transmitter to channel 4 and the receiver to a different channel say #1. Then on the transmitter on your handheld camera set it to #4 and on the other transmitter set it to #1. I know it sounds complicated but it works.
Matt Brown had a great setup where he made a trigger button and taped it to the bottom of his camera so when he shot the remote trigger was right next to his shutter button on the camera. That way he could shoot his handheld with his index finger and trigger the remote with his middle finger. |
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Eric Canha, Photographer
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Brockton | MA | United States | Posted: 1:04 PM on 11.18.09 |
->> A few points for anyone planning to use these to fire remotes. The CSRB's have a built in battery saver that shuts the unit off if the receiver doesn't get a signal within 60 minutes. THERE IS NO WAY TO BYPASS THIS. This feature kills me because I have to remember to fire the remote before the timer puts the receiver to sleep and I'm out the remote for the game. Also know that this ONLY works in single shot mode, no way to fire bursts.
They're much cheaper than a few PW's but there are trade-offs and you need to be aware before you plunk down hard cash. |
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David Welker, Photographer, Student/Intern
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Springfield | MO | USA | Posted: 2:29 PM on 11.18.09 |
->> Eli,
So in total I would need 2 transmitters and 3 receivers for the set up I am looking to do correct?
Eric,
I agree on some of the draw backs of the Cybersyncs but for the money, they are such a great value, you really can not beat them. I am sure we can find a way to do almost anything the PWs do. |
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Curtis Clegg, Photographer
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Sycamore | IL | USA | Posted: 1:27 PM on 03.04.10 |
->> I was having problems with my Cybersyncs last night but as it turns out the problem was a user error.
I was getting dark frames on quite a few vertical shots, and I figured it had something to do with the direction of the antenna until I realized I was hitting the test button with my forehead on some vertical shots, and then the ABs didn't have time to recycle before I took the shot. |
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Joel Hawksley, Student/Intern, Photographer
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Athens | OH | USA | Posted: 2:44 PM on 03.04.10 |
->> David-
You need the following to do this, I've done it before:
Hand camera: CST (Transmit Channel 1)
Remote: CSRB (Receive Channel 1) with pre-trigger cable, CST (Transmit Channel 2) on hotshoe to trigger lights
Lights- CSRB (Receive Channel 2) on each light, optical triggers are too slow. That, or run a sync line for the lights.
This is much more easily accomplished with MultiMAX's, trust me...
Joel |
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David Welker, Photographer, Student/Intern
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Springfield | MO | USA | Posted: 5:39 PM on 03.04.10 |
->> Joel,
I had figured it out about 3 weeks after posting this. I should have kept it up to date. I have a thorough set up guide on another photo website describing everything.
I know it is easier with the PWMM but then again I dont have 250+ dollars to spend just on one remote. |
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Joel Hawksley, Student/Intern, Photographer
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Athens | OH | USA | Posted: 5:52 PM on 03.04.10 |
| ->> Ah, good deal. I sometimes think of the MM as two remotes though, since it can be a relay... |
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David Welker, Photographer, Student/Intern
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Springfield | MO | USA | Posted: 6:02 PM on 03.04.10 |
| ->> Yeah the Cybersyncs can relay too.. they have that mode, I have not used it but... It is there. |
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