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|| SportsShooter.com: Member Message Board
For freelancers: How do you finance your kit?
Grant Blankenship, Photographer
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Macon | GA | USA | Posted: 1:28 PM on 10.09.09 |
->> I still have my newspaper job, and it looks like for the time being it is safe (knocks wood). That being said, I would like to flesh out my personal kit for freelance work.
I've got the basics for bread and butter stuff, but to kit myself out the way the paper does it would take a car loan sized hunk of cash.
So, how do you folks that are out there making a living on your own manage this? The financing I mean. Is it just creative credit card management (sweet! a new 0% deal!) or a bank loan for the entire amount? |
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Brad Moore, Photographer, Assistant
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Weston | MA | USA | Posted: 1:49 PM on 10.09.09 |
->> For me it was knowing my limits. I don't use credit cards to buy camera gear so I had to get creative. Obviously prioritizing your kit is the #1 thing. What lens/body/gear piece can you not live without?
In addition I looked for lower cost solutions. As much as I'd love a Canon 70-200 f2.8 IS, I didn't really need the IS. I also got a great deal on a Sigma 70-200 f2.8 instead of the Canon, saved myself about $600, which permitted me to buy a used 24-70. In effect, I got two lenses for the price of the Canon that I originally wanted.
I also look at used lenses from reputable sources, and I devote $X per paycheck and $Y dollars per assignment to new gear. It's a slow process but it's working and keeping me out of debt. |
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Max Waugh, Photographer
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Bothell | WA | USA | Posted: 1:54 PM on 10.09.09 |
| ->> Not sure how many folks will answer "another job," but I supplemented a lot of my early gear purchases with side work doing independent graphic design, which was always a more reliable source of income at the time. |
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Joshua Brown, Photographer
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Waynesville | NC | USA | Posted: 1:56 PM on 10.09.09 |
| ->> I started building my gear when I still worked for a newspaper, so I did it little by little. Find the next item to purchase, save the money, then move onto the next item. That being said, I don't ever sell much gear or "Trade-up" to another payment. I still own a D70 (my first ever DSLR) as well as a D2h, D200 and D700. I purchased my D2h and D200 used from SS members to save money. I know its a gamble, but even if the shutters go, its a $300 fix, much less than the difference between a new and used camera. I buy lenses used from dealers if the grade is high enough as well as buy Kingston brand memory because it performs flawlessly, and a lot cheaper than San Disk or Lexar. Basically, I'm as cheap as I can be without skimping on my gear, hold on to gear as the more it's used, the cheaper the "price per click." Since you still have a job (also, knocking on wood), I would recommenced saving and getting the next item on your list. I try to avoid credit cards and loans if at all possible. They just don't pay off in the long run. |
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Steven Bisig, Photographer
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Seattle | WA | USA | Posted: 1:59 PM on 10.09.09 |
->> I personally saved up for the lens that I thought I would be using the most for assignments and started with a body that I could also afford. For any lens required for an assignment that I did not own (or could not afford) I rented from a local company here in Seattle (i.e. Nikon 400mm for football).
Another trick is to ask for gift cards (or cash) for your favorite camera store on the holidays.
steven b~ |
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Kent Miller, Photographer
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New York | NY | USA | Posted: 2:05 PM on 10.09.09 |
| ->> Sell everything you don't need anymore. Work your tail off and buy used for the first round. Save, resell the used gear and credit card the balance.(Remember CC's are EVIL!) If you can score a low interest loan I would do that but only for a 2 or 3 year period of time. Don't buy more than you really need. Having a 400 2.8 sitting on the shelf 5-7 months a year is not a good use of your money. Borrow or rent when you really must have something. 18 months is all I give my gear to be payed off and ready to trade up to the next model. I think the new gear is good for 3 years depending on how hard you beat it. I worked for a bunch of years with one body, 2 lenses and a flash. I still have most of that gear and it still works just fine. Just my .02. |
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Harrison Shull, Photographer
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Fayetteville, WV | Asheville, NC | | Posted: 2:10 PM on 10.09.09 |
->> I took a different path in the winter of 2004 when I went digital and switched to Canon at the same time. So I was starting with a truly blank slate - no gear whatsoever.
I sold all my Nikon gear for peanuts and then came up with what I would normally carry but in Canon gear. It was a substantial sum - around $15k. I shopped this list around to several camera shops and online retailers to see who could sell me everything at once and give me a discount.
I ended up getting a 15% discount and it all arrived in one shipment. I put it on my credit card to get the reward points and then paid off the card with cash from a home equity line locked at prime. I then dumped every single extra dollar I could scrape up towards knocking this debt down - including taking extra work outside my pix.
It took me a bit over a year, but I paid it off. This was beneficial in a multitude of ways - I got all my gear at once, I got the reward points that I used towards some travel, I got good credit juju because I made a large credit card purchase that was paid off on time AND I serviced an equity line loan within a year.
It may not work for everyone, but if you have the ability to swing it, give it a try |
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Derek Montgomery, Photographer
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Duluth | MN | USA | Posted: 2:41 PM on 10.09.09 |
->> Since being laid off from my newspaper job in March, I've had to face this question as well. I saved up a lot because I anticipated my job was going to be cut so that helped and when I was in college, I spent pretty much all the money I worked up there on equipment so I had a pretty decent base to begin with. Since then, I have put away 20% of each assignment's pay for new equipment. I'd rather pay a lot this year to get what I need so that when next year rolls around, I can start doing things like investing a certain percentage and more. I also would put everything on the credit card, get the points, pay it off right away and in the process earned a couple free airline tickets.
I've had success just making sure that I devote a specific percentage of each assignment pay toward equipment. In doing so, I opened up another savings account at my bank and dropped money into that so I made sure that that money did not get wasted on other things. |
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Thomas E. Witte, Photographer, Photo Editor
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Cincinnati | OH | USA | Posted: 3:42 PM on 10.09.09 |
->> Rule number one; don't feel the need to keep up with the Joneses. I've seen so many people rush out and buy 3-4 bodies and monster telephoto lenses only to later realize they weren't shooting enough sports to justify the 4/5/600 and were instead doing mainly studio/portrait work where 1-2 cameras would have sufficed.
Sure it's nice to have all of that on hand "just in case" but you can always rent or borrow and bill back the rental fee.
If you feel the need to finance (Which comes with it's own set of benefits. I've been able to redeem an international round trip in biz class for my wife and I off of points through my airlines' credit card.), then make sure that you can afford the payments EVEN IF you aren't bringing in any photographic income because unless you're slowly segueing in to it, you can't expect to just end the paper job and start bringing in freelance income at the drop of a hat.
The biggest shock most fledgling fulltime freelancers will face is the inconsistent income, especially if you're doing editorial only. Payments can come anywhere from a week to 90 days - from when they receive the invoice. So it's not in your best interest to buy tens of thousands of dollars worth of gear that you may not even need, then draw negative interest on it while struggling to make the payments.
The things you're going to need the most, are obviously at least one body to start (a backup body should be on the immediate horizon right behind that) and a "portrait" lens. For the sake of versatility, a 70-200 can get you by. Second would be something in the wide angle to mid zoom range.
To save money, fight the urge to buy new. About 80% of my gear is refurb. It comes with the same manufacturers warranty and is typically 15-25% cheaper. Also, don't feel the need to buy a Mark 3 when a Mark 2N works just fine. I still use 2N's and I haven't had a magazine editor complain yet. So why go buy a $3500 camera when you can spend $1700...? And buy two for that matter.
So, space out the purchases. Buy only what you need. Buy used for the first few years. Make sure you can pay if off in the absence of income. |
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Will Powers, Photographer
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Denver | CO | USA | Posted: 3:48 PM on 10.09.09 |
->> Buy the glass you need for the jobs you want (while still working at the newspaper if you can) and save for an upgrade in body. For instance, if you expect to shoot mostly sports, buy the appropriate lens.
Whatever system you choose, people have been selling used gear on SS, eBay, photo.net and other sites. I'm less likely to buy a used body, but lenses and flashes are pretty secure.
Check pawn shops in Phoenix. Several people have reported stolen gear (I'm one). Someone recently said on the message board that they were thinking about leaving the business- could be a fire sale. |
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Jim Colburn, Photo Editor, Photographer
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McAllen | TX | USA | Posted: 3:59 PM on 10.09.09 |
->> Visa/Mastercard/Discover
Don't forget the Section 179 depreciation on your gear in the year of purchase on your Schedule C. |
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Ian L. Sitren, Photographer
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Palm Springs | CA | USA | Posted: 4:21 PM on 10.09.09 |
->> It depends on what you are shooting or intend to shoot.
I am not sure if you would be just as well off with a pair of Canon G10's or G11's, maybe one or two 580 flash units and a bunch of cards. |
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Eric Canha, Photographer
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Brockton | MA | United States | Posted: 4:27 PM on 10.09.09 |
->> Marry a rich woman. If you want health insurance see to it that she has a good job too....
Oh and the other advise here isn't bad either. |
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Clark Brooks, Photo Editor, Photographer
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Urbana | IL | USA | Posted: 5:13 PM on 10.09.09 |
->> A lot of good advice above.
Start saving yesterday for your kit.
I second buying used gear. 80% of my purchases the last two years have been from SS members. Cameras, lenses, flashes...before that eBay. It is cheaper to buy used working gear and send it in when it needs repaired if it needs it. Cosmetics isn't an issue with me as long as gear functions and gets the job done.
However, more importantly, the day - no, the second you start freelancing charge appropriately for your services. Along with putting money aside for major purchases, it will help you finance the gear you need quickly with little to no bank financing.
If you get laid off don't be afraid to get one or two part-time jobs to help finance your equipment needs while you build your operation. |
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Kevin Leas, Photographer, Assistant
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Rochester | NY | USA | Posted: 5:25 PM on 10.09.09 |
->> My answer probably won't be of much use to most of you, but what the heck. My biggest advantage: buying most of my gear while I had little to no other bills to pay. I started my collection in high school and early college, while I was still living rent free, driving a junker car that I had bought flat out with cash, and was still on their health insurance. And since I was only attending a community college, my tuition was pretty low. The result? Most of my income from my job could go straight into gear, almost all of which was purchased used. In fact, I think my first digital body - a 10D - was the only piece of equipment I own right now that was bought new, which has probably saved me thousands.
Alternately, Eric Canha's advice is pretty solid. |
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Alan Look, Photographer
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Bloomington | IL | United States | Posted: 5:28 PM on 10.09.09 |
->> Well, a rich woman (spouse) doesn't hurt, but a very understanding one is essential if you have a companion.
Used/refurbed - can't say enough about it. I haven't bought a lot from private individuals but I've got lots of great equipment from several places - Roberts, KEH, and other. All my long glass is older non-IS gear. There is some risk that I may not be able to get it fixed, but the price was awesome and the functionality and sharpness is even better.
Lot's of people trade up. I'm split on this. I generally prefer to save a bit longer and buy what I want the first time. That isn't always possible, but it's my preferred method.
Bodies - I last bought a current model just as the IIn's were getting phased out. I knew I wasn't going to pay the price of a III. The III also wasn't "field tested" and had some options that I just really didn't need. With the price of the IIN's hitting the sale board, the general consensus that the III is a dud, no IV in sight and the integration of video into almost every still body being announced, I'm actually contemplating buying a few more IIn's just to stash till I need them. Heck, even the classic ID has some great reasons to buy it and they still takes great pics. For some reason the general thought is that after a new model appears the old ones quit working. I've never understood that.
Time - I got back in the business 10 years ago. In just the last year have I been comfortable that I have the gear to do the jobs that I do and have some flexibility and room for creativity.
Credit is bad as a debtor, generally great as a creditor. Anytime one can, it's better to have someone pay to use your money, not the other way around. |
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Brian Dowling, Photographer
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Philadelphia | PA | USA | Posted: 6:48 PM on 10.09.09 |
| ->> Although what Harrison said is risky, I do like the idea. I rather have payments and all the proper gear at once. So, I am confident enough to take on any assignment. Just know your spending limits and buy only what you really need. |
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Eric Canha, Photographer
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Brockton | MA | United States | Posted: 12:15 AM on 10.10.09 |
->> On a more serious note than my earlier post, don't underestimate the value of rentals. In most cases you can write off the cost of the rental and for items that you only need occasionally, even if it's occasionally regularly, rentals will allow you to take a job and A) earn $$ B) gain experience C) develop a client base and D) evaluate different flavors of gear.
Seriously consider getting a commercial insurance policy. List the rental house(s) that you are going to have a relationship with and get them COI's. Then when you need something all you have to worry about is the cost of the rental not how you are going to cover a $10k rental deposit for a 400 and a couple of TC's.
Over the last 25 years I have rented just about every piece of gear that you can think of. I remember loading a '76 VW Rabbit with so many light stands, umbrellas, and black line packs that the hatch wouldn't close. There was no way I could have afforded the 25K (1985 dollars!!) of gear in that car back then. More recently my relationship with my local rental shop is so tight that I ordered the parts to repair a hood and did the repair myself. Not that I had broken the hood, it was routine wear and tear and re the fix needed to be done. I got a 2 free rentals in exchange and I'm happy and proud to list those guys as friends AND vendors.
Which brings up networking and friends. On more than one occasion I have borrowed something that I needed to get through a job. Likewise when one the guys that works for me on occasion had his body at Mid-State for an extended repair visit I let him borrow a backup D200 for a month. If he called me tomorrow needing a D2X or D3 in a pinch he knows that he would be expected to have beer on ice when he came to pick up the body. No worries otherwise.
As far as credit cards go Harrison has it short and sweet. I just picked up a 300VR and another D3. I'll confess that I used AMEX not only to bank the points but because I was able to double the warranty on the refurb D3 by putting it on the card. That being said, there are no balances carried on Amex so I stuck to my rule of paying for my gear up front. I wouldn't dream of financing gear on a credit card. |
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Wesley Hitt, Photographer
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Fayetteville | AR | USA | Posted: 7:08 AM on 10.10.09 |
->> Business 101: If you have good credit and if you are not heavy in debt, go talk to your bank. Using a credit card with high interest is the dumbest move you can make. Credit cards are a trap and with a interest rate of 16 to 22 percent you start in a hole.
A bank will want their money secured so any equipment you already have will work as collateral. Figure out what you can pay monthly without hurting yourself.
Write up a business plan for your future. (Which you need anyway)
Put on some nice clothes and go talk to your loan officer as a professional photographer that knows his business. My first bank loan was for $4000 for two years. Paid it off in one year. My second was for $5000 for two years. Paid it off in one year. Over the years I have managed to get a line of credit so that in lean times I only had to pay interest monthly if needed.
One day I may want to start another business and I now have a great relationship with my bank and have shown them I know how to handle money.
Like Eric, I love American Express. Insurance, no debt, points for any purchase. |
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Colin Heyburn, Photographer
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ARMAGH | NI | United Kingdom | Posted: 7:17 AM on 10.10.09 |
| ->> Like most of the guys here you have to prioritise what you need. Personally I am not prepared to save on kit that is not necessarily the best. I have canon bodies and canon lenses. All my kit was sourced on ebay and no problems there if you stick to a few basic rules. Finally financed by money earned as well as an interest free credit card. When it comes to financing you must know your limits. |
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Randy Tobias, Photographer
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Wichita | KS | USA | Posted: 10:49 AM on 10.10.09 |
| ->> I left newspapers by choice about four years ago. For roughly two years prior, I began investing in lighting gear, computers, cameras, etc. When it came time to leave the job, everything was paid for, and there was no debt looming. That allowed for a very smooth transition into the freelance world. I have watched over and over as friends have been laid off from newspaper jobs, and then have absolutely no gear to shoot even the most simple freelance opportunities. To me, it seems wise to invest in at least a basic kit, even if you have the most solid of staff jobs. As others have said here, buy one piece at a time, then move on. But into lighting such as Dynalite, that is reasonably priced, yet fantastic to build a growing system that will last for years. I'm in a market with no rental options, but certainly look into that option if you have it available. And I would agree that unless you have some great sports gigs lined up already, then trade the long glass first thing. Invest in lighting, at least one backup body, etc. Nearly all of my shoots now are with a 24-70 and 70-200. |
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Neil Turner, Photographer
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Bournemouth | UK | United Kingdom | Posted: 2:24 PM on 10.10.09 |
->> When I got made redundant from my job, I negotiated the gear that I had been using as part of my deal. If they no longer needed a photographer, they no longer needed his gear! Under UK tax law it had all been written off for tax purposes so it had no real value and so I saved some money in tax too. The bodies got replaced when I started earning and the lenses all got serviced but are still working fine.
I cannot offload the gear for profite unless I want to pay tax on the profit though. |
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Michael Fischer, Photographer
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Spencer | Ia | USA | Posted: 2:50 PM on 10.10.09 |
->> Some great advice here! I feel vindicated after preaching the horrors of credit card purchases .. you can do what Mr. Witte and I do - use the credit card to get the points but then pay it off immediately! ( In other words, save for it).
If the points don't trip your trigger, then my other favorite is to save and then "flash the cash". Credit cards usually cost the merchant 1.5 -2.25% (or more if they take American Express).
Shop around. Go visit if they're reasonably close. Make an offer. Get to a agreed on price. Ask if they accept credit cards. Then, make them a second offer- for cash. You'd be amazed how well that works. Just smile warmly and ask "You still take cash, don't you?"
Good luck.
Michael |
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Colin Lenton, Photographer
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Philadelphia | PA | United States | Posted: 3:00 PM on 10.10.09 |
->> When I decided in college to go full time as a freelancer I opened up an American Express card and used that.
Building good business credit is key to running a successful photography business. (Or Any business for that matter)
Make sure you also get yourself a DnB# so that you can begin to develop business credit history |
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Eric Canha, Photographer
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Brockton | MA | United States | Posted: 4:03 PM on 10.10.09 |
->> Michael I'm in the process of changing CC services and as a result had to apply for a Amex merchant account. We were approved with a rate of 2.2%. The days of 4% Amex rates are long gone. Brick and mortar merchants or those than can do a 'swiped' transaction get Amex rates that are on par with the rest of the credit card industry. I was pleasantly surprised as I had expected to take a bath on my Amex sales.
That being said your are correct that some merchants will provide a cash discount. |
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Michael Fischer, Photographer
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Spencer | Ia | USA | Posted: 10:13 PM on 10.10.09 |
->> Eric,
Although credit card rules prohibit a cash discount in lieu of using a credit card, I've never heard of a credit card company being able to enforce it.
When evaluating a credit card program as a merchant, it isn't just the discount fee to look at. You have to look at debit card fees, non traditional fees ( if the credit card isn't present, what is the rate?) plus terminal fees and whatever else they look at. In other words, they can add a group of fees just like they do on consumer cards.
Getting back on the topic; let me second to look at used glass. By looking at good values, you can save thousands. When I switched back to Nikon, most of my lenses were used.
Michael |
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Yamil Sued, Photographer, Photo Editor
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Peoria | AZ | USA | Posted: 11:47 PM on 10.10.09 |
->> In order to start my Latest Kit, I sold whatever I wasn't using and Purchased every single Piece with either Cash/Amex (for Points).
Never ever use credit to buy Equipment!!
I agree with Eric, Rent!! If you can't justify a piece of gear for pretty much every day use, rent it!!
The Nikon 14-24 is "MY" perfect example. I got it for a pretty good price, but never used it for a Job, I actually used it once for a trip to the Grand Canyon, but never used it on a Job. A friend was in need of one and I sold him mine. I miss it, but I still don't have a real use for it, nor have I needed it for a single job.
I only buy gear that I need for every day use, other than that, I rent!!
For example, I just did a location job in Missouri, I called a good friend there and he met me and loaned me/Rented me the gear I needed for this specific job. I didn't go out and purchased gear that would be cool to own, but didn't really need it on a daily basis.
Y |
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Michael Proebsting, Photographer
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Barrington | IL | USA | Posted: 11:45 AM on 10.11.09 |
| ->> Check with Eric Swist, he has some great deals on used equipment. |
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Jim Colburn, Photo Editor, Photographer
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McAllen | TX | USA | Posted: 4:48 AM on 10.12.09 |
->> "Never ever use credit to buy Equipment!!"
Nonsense. The sensible use of credit is a valid business option. The interest paid on a business loan (or credit card) is deductible and the equipment itself is depreciable. |
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Javier Gonzalez, Photographer
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Mayaguez | PR | Puerto Rico | Posted: 10:46 AM on 10.12.09 |
| ->> Get the book -BEST BUSINESS PRACTICES FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS- You will find all answers to stay in business. Ther's no other way to stay in business than charging to cover all your costs. |
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Michael Fischer, Photographer
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Spencer | Ia | USA | Posted: 4:49 PM on 10.12.09 |
->> Grant,
You mentioned 0% financing and no one has commented on it.
I have used 0% before and it's a very useful tool. BUT...
1) It has to be used carefully. (There's usually a service charge of 3% on the transfer balance if you're using it that way - I would do that to get the miles and then transfer the balance).
2) Like any 0% program, YOU ARE ACCURING interest from DAY ONE. That interest rate is currently somewhere of 20% on most programs.
3) IF you don't pay off the TOTAL by the end of the agreed on period, the interest charges from day one apply. This is how the finance guys make money - serious money - on zero percent.
4) If you miss a payment, or are late, they have the right (check the fine print) to declare the account in default, assess penalties and up the interest rate (somewhere north of 25%). Read the fine print no one reads - it's all there.
The regulations are changing next year because of the feds to make them more consumer friendly. But in the mean time, you have to be careful. These programs are the ultimate honey for the flies, with more catches and loop holes written for the provider than one can possibly realize if they don't read the fine print.
I've used them - successfully. BUT I always paid on time and never missed.
IF you decide to use this tool, make sure the monthly isn't so big that if you were to lose your job you couldn't still make the payment.
These programs worked REALLY well for credit provider because the consumer would make the monthly minimums and then not have the money to pay the balance off.
If you use them, do so VERY carefully.
Michael |
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Israel Shirk, Photographer, Assistant
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Boise | ID | US | Posted: 9:56 PM on 10.12.09 |
->> Zack Arias recently did a brilliant job stating the obvious on a video on digital wedding forum (I know, I know... we're better than that... deal with it!)
It's still on the front page, and you can just do a free trial to watch it. |
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Ron Erdrich, Photographer
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Abilene | TX | USA | Posted: 10:43 PM on 10.12.09 |
->> Think about investing some money in penny stocks and growing it that way. This is a great time to get in the stock market, I paid off a large credit card bill that I'd been floating for a few years using money I grew from investing in the market in 2009.
It's not as random as gambling but it does take research and understanding of how the market works. There are great penny stocks out there belonging to good companies that range from .001 to 45-cents a share that you can get a nice return from if you follow them closely enough. Just remember you still have to pay taxes on any income you make. And you should also not invest in the market anything you aren't prepared to lose. And of course, you do have to remember to pay the taxman.
-Ron- |
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Colin Lenton, Photographer
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Philadelphia | PA | United States | Posted: 12:43 PM on 10.13.09 |
->> Yamil, renting will cost you way more over the long term than paying the interest charges on a credit card.
For example, lets say you pay in credit $8,000 for a small light kit that you will need to do portraits. If your APR is 10% youll end up paying a monthly finance charge of around $70 - give or take.
Now lets compare a rental rate from LensRentals.com - for a small (only 2 head kid) you're talking $86.
So even if you only shoot once a month, and never even attempt to pay off the balance on that card, you're still saving $16. If you shoot more than once, and that's the hope, you would save the entire rental rate each additional time.
Don't get me wrong, I understand the fear and risk involved with taking on this debt - but if you're serious about being in business for yourself, paying back a credit card will be the least of your worries when you're also trying to pay a mortgage, insurance, car payment, etc... |
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Eric Canha, Photographer
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Brockton | MA | United States | Posted: 1:40 PM on 10.13.09 |
->> Colin a few things to consider on the CC route. A maxed or nearly maxed out card will hit your FICO pretty hard. Do it on 2 or 3 cards (to reach $8k) and the damage to your score could be with you for a while.
The rental house won't change the rental rate between the time you take the gear and when you bring it back. If the rates go up you are not locked in, you are free to look for rentals elsewhere.
Until the new laws go into effect, banks are free to change the interest rate on an account with no warning and in many cases for no reason. That APR of 10% could in 60 days go to 24% or 34% just cuz. So for no reason what-so-ever you could be holding a CC that is maxed out and sporting a 24% rate and your only option would be to refi with a conventional loan. Of course that's when you'll discover what the cost of that credit was to your FICO.
Just my 2 cents. |
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Colin Lenton, Photographer
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Philadelphia | PA | United States | Posted: 2:23 PM on 10.13.09 |
->> Eric,
A business credit card has much higher limits than a personal credit card - and when correctly tied to your business does not effect your personal FICO.
IF you decide to do it on a personal credit card you should try to get yourself as high a credit line as possible and then keep your balances to below 33% of the max credit line.
If your credit card is maxed out that *IS* a reason for them to raise your rates. Follow the above advice and use your cards wisely and the credit card companies will want to keep you as a customer and will keep you with a fair rates.
My rates haven't been above 10% at all in the last 5 years. |
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Colin Lenton, Photographer
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Philadelphia | PA | United States | Posted: 2:26 PM on 10.13.09 |
->> Also, keep in mind that when your card is paid off, you own the gear and although depreciated it still has value.
When renting, this is not the case. |
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