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|| SportsShooter.com: Member Message Board

Adding a color profile to your 1D
 
john taggart, Photographer, Photo Editor
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Philadelphia | PA | USA | Posted: 11:45 PM on 10.02.05 |
->> i searched and searched on here.. but did not find anything related to what i need to know..... but which application do i need to dwnload from canon's site in order to upload some color profiles to my 1D ?
also, is it really worth it for me to go thru all this trouble ? i never shoot raw because i dont have very many memory cards and i need as much space as possible
thanks
any help, or a link to an older thread would be great.
-tags |
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Greg Ferguson, Photographer
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Scottsdale | Az | USA | Posted: 12:13 AM on 10.03.05 |
->> Tone curves or color profiles?
I don't think its possible to add anything beyond the standard four (or is it three profiles) in the 1D. However, you can add/replace tone-curves.
The application you need to upload curves is on the CD that comes with the 1D. I think it is "Canon EOS Viewer Utility"
We've discussed tone-curves here in the past so a search should turn up something. |
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Greg Ferguson, Photographer
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David Meyer, Photographer
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Orlando | FL | USA | Posted: 12:27 AM on 10.03.05 |
->> John,
If you're referring to tone curves on the original 1D, I believe you'll need EOS File Viewer Utility v1.3.2, a FireWire cable and a vacant FireWire port on your Mac or PC. You can download the application and the manuals by visiting the following link:
http://consumer.usa.canon.com/ir/controller?act=DownloadDetailAct&fcategory...
There has been quite a bit of discussion about this in the past. A search for "1d tone curves" should provide you with some threads relevant to your inquiry.
During the past few days, I've been looking into uploading a custom tone curve myself. The images from my 1D appear muddy in comparison to the vibrant photos produced by my 10D. |
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Greg Ferguson, Photographer
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Scottsdale | Az | USA | Posted: 12:38 AM on 10.03.05 |
->> Something else to keep in mind is that the 1D has a bug in its color-space processing when it creates jpegs.
If you're using Adobe RGB instead of sRGB, the camera will not tag the photos correctly and the images will look a bit flat. Assign the Adobe RGB in Photoshop, or tell Photo Mechanic to assign the Adobe RGB color-space and you'll be set for further photo processing.
This won't affect RAW, but it will affect the thumbnails or sidecar jpegs if you're shooting RAW+jpeg. |
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john taggart, Photographer, Photo Editor
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Philadelphia | PA | USA | Posted: 9:58 AM on 10.03.05 |
->> thank you so much guys !!! :)
yeah i have adobe RGB 1998 set as default in photoshop,
when i bought my 1D it came with no software, manual or firewire cord.. which now i have.
ill do what i can |
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Ron Scheffler, Photographer
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Hamilton (Toronto area) | Ontario | Canada | Posted: 7:44 PM on 10.03.05 |
->> If you use Photo Mechanic version 4, it can be set to embed the ICC profile into the camera produced jpeg files. If you select this option in the Preferences, it will also embed that profile if copying the files to another folder, etc. This is quite useful since PM v.4 will correctly recognize 1D files shot in Matrix 4 as being Adobe RGB files while many other applications will not and will thus embed the a profile so those other apps, if color space aware, will correctly read the 1D images.
I would also recommend you try to find a link to one of the customized tone curves. The default standard tone curve tends to produce a green/cyan bias that will dull down the saturation of colors. You should also look at the camera's menu to see if the previous owner already installed a custom tone curve. In my opinion, it is difficult to modify the tone curve because the interface in the Canon software is not very good and to get rid of the color cast you have to fiddle with each color channel separately... and even if you get something reasonable, it probably won't be perfect. For this reason, I firmly believe that to get the fullest color quality out of the 1D, raw is the answer. But even with raw you have to be careful because the Canon raw converters will use the camera's tone curve as the basis for determining the color look, at least it appears DPP works in this way. I haven't looked closely at the other Canon converter, or version 2 of DPP to be able to comment on those. For this reason, I'd suggest considering the raw converter in Photoshop or another third party app such as Bibble http://www.bibblelabs.com
Memory cards are pretty cheap now, so adding a couple GBs isn't that terribly expensive. |
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Mark Stewart, Student/Intern, Photographer
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Melbourne | VIC | Australia | Posted: 7:20 AM on 10.04.05 |
->> I'll second Ron and recommend shooting raw if at all possible.
I only ever shot jpegs on my D30, 10D and then 20D and was always satisfied with them. When I recently picked up a 1D I spent a few weeks pulling my hair out trying to get a decent jpeg out of it. I tried every custom tone curve I could download and attempted several myself and couldn't get anything even close to satisfying colour.
I then started to tackle raw and am now very satisfied with what I can get out of it. It makes for notably wider dynamic range and far nicer colours. I am using the converter in CS on my mac and rawshooter essentials on pc.
I'm also very surprised at how little it changes my workflow - the reason I had previously avoided it. 1GB cards are getting cheaper now too, and I find I get 250+ raw 1D files on a card, not all that different from 20D or MKII jpegs.
Best of luck. |
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