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|| SportsShooter.com: Member Message Board

Another 1D Mark III issue and remotes
 
Bill Miller, Photographer
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Thousand Palms | CA | USA | Posted: 8:43 PM on 05.08.08 |
->> Several photographers had problems with the Mark3's at this years Kentucky Derby.
A comon practice at the Derby is to hardwire multiple cameras on one cord using add-a-taps and pre-trigger cables. This has worked for years, even allowing the mix of Canon and Nikon. You cannot add a Canon 1D Mark III to the mix. CPS reps at the race had no answer for anyone.
The issue is when daisy chaining more than one camera, the Mark III will not function. It will fire all the time regardless of the polarity of the plug. It must be on a dedicated line. |
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Vasha Hunt, Photographer
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Opelika | AL | USA | Posted: 9:40 PM on 05.08.08 |
| ->> Sorry Bill I replied to the wrong tabbed window, my apologies. |
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Tom Dahlin, Photographer
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St. Louis Park | MN | USA | Posted: 11:57 PM on 05.08.08 |
->> Bill,
I had a similar problem when I tried to tie six Canon Rebels together to a hard wired pushbutton. (I built a six camera panoramic rig). One or more of the cameras would fire continuously. When connected separately each worked fine.
To solve the problem I used a diode to isolate each of the cameras. A 1N914 placed in series with the 'fire' lead worked great.
I suspect this fix would work with the Mark-III's although I have not tried it.
T |
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Thomas E. Witte, Photographer, Photo Editor
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Cincinnati | OH | USA | Posted: 9:39 PM on 05.09.08 |
| ->> Interesting. This is the first I've heard of this. I'm going to try to get my hands on some Mark 3's and work on this. Stay tuned. |
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Robert Deutsch, Photographer
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NY | NY | USA | Posted: 9:57 PM on 05.09.08 |
->> Bill,
I had similar issues at Final Four. We had 2 separate runs of Mark III remotes and they would sometimes fire continuously when connected. Polarity was not the issue. I found that if all cameras were on, they would work as usual together. But turn off one camera, or remove a disk, and they will all fire.
So solution was to remove the remote cord before shutting the camera or changing disks. |
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Justin Edmonds, Student/Intern, Photographer
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Denver | CO | USA | Posted: 10:57 PM on 05.09.08 |
| ->> I ran into the exact same situation at SSA V trying to connect a Mk III and 30D for basketball. Robert is right on with this one. I just had to leave both cameras connected and turned on to prevent either camera from firing. To save battery life on the 30D I left them off until just prior to tip off. That was a reasonable solution at the time but I can see others running into problems with this 'fix' at a big event such as the derby when you can't access your remotes immediately before the start of an event. If and when anyone finds a solution I would love an answer to the issue. |
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Thomas E. Witte, Photographer, Photo Editor
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Cincinnati | OH | USA | Posted: 3:15 PM on 05.16.08 |
->> I'm getting my hands on a few M3's to tinker with, but they won't be here for another 10 days or so. In the mean time I've been talking with Chuckie and Scott from Canon about this and they're working on their fix as well but they've got a several day head start on me.
The one fix is exactly what Tom Dahlin mentioned about inserting a diode in the line for a straight-line daisy chain set up. The other fix involves a splitter box where your firing line comes in and splits the signal out to however many cameras you've got.
The problem is (at this point believed to be) that there is a faint signal coming back out of the M3 that's throwing everything out of whack. Much like lightning taking the path of least resistance, having all these faint signals polluting the line is causing some to fire while the others aren't getting anything.
Stay tuned in another week or so. Canon will post something to their website and once I get all the parts and photos I'll stick something on mine as well. |
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