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|| SportsShooter.com: Member Message Board
DIY Nikon Pre-Release Cable
Nicholas Wright, Photographer
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Palo Alto | CA | USA | Posted: 2:59 PM on 06.12.05 |
->> Hi all,
I just created a hidden gallery explaining how I made myself a pre-release cable for my PW and D100 w/ grip using a Nikon MC-30 10-pin cable release and a mono plug from RadioShack.
http://www.sportsshooter.com/nicholaswright/nikoncable/
There are probably many ways to do this, all of which I'm sure are safer and stronger than mine, but it works for me.
I'm pretty sure that the important wires in the 10-pin are different colors depending on which type of Nikon 10-pin cable you decide to hack apart. I used the MC-30 because that's what I had lying around. Other people have recommended getting so-and-so Nikon cable with the banana plugs because it's cheaper and easy to disassemble.
Please remember this is a total hack job. Many others on this site can probably tell you how to make the cuts and splices a lot cleaner. Good luck. |
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Mark Loundy, Photo Editor
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San Jose | CA | USA | Posted: 4:22 PM on 06.12.05 |
->> Nicholas, Forgive me, but what does a "pre-release" cable do? Is it just a trigger?
--Mark |
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George Bridges, Photographer, Photo Editor
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Washington | DC | USA | Posted: 4:43 PM on 06.12.05 |
->> Mark,
"pre-release" means the camera does not go to sleep when the PW is connected.
This will allow the camera to fire quicker when you hit the PW. If the camera is in "normal" mode then it will go to sleep and will need to "wake up" and get it's bearings, so to speak, before firing.
the cable from PW that does this allows you to choose either normal or stay-awake mode and costs about $200.
Folks have been trying to find ways to work around that price ever since they came out and there are several modifications out there.
There is also a company that makes cables that will always keep the camera awake (nikoncable.com or canoncable.com). Have not used them but heard they work okay.
With the D1 series cameras ( and I guess the D100) the lag time is very annoying. On the D2 if acts almost as fast if the camera is awake or allowed to go to sleep. |
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Thomas E. Witte, Photographer
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Cincinnati | OH | USA | Posted: 6:27 PM on 06.12.05 |
->> Nicholas- Open that cable back up and clip off the exposed copper wire to the unused wires. Those cables are used for other purposes and if a you continually short circuit something important bad things are going to happen inside your camera.
You may also want to install a two way switch while you're at it. I was sort of rushed when I sent you that email the other day and forgot to explain the benefits of a switch. Essentially, a pre-release cable acts like you holding your finger part way down on the shutter.... Well, when you hold you finger part way down on the shutter (at least with Canon) you can not simultaneously be using the rear LCD to chimp or make CF adjustments. You'll have to unplug the cable from the camera or PW first each time.
That might not seem like an inconvenience, but after the first time you walk away from the remote and forget to plug it back in, you'll be wishing you spent the extra 2 minutes and $0.99. |
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Richard Ritari, Photographer
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Gainesville | FL | USA | Posted: 8:23 PM on 06.12.05 |
| ->> If you want to save money on this, instead of destroying a perfectly good MC-30 remote, purchase a Nikon MC-27 cable ($19.95 at B&H, probably much cheaper on eBay) or the Nikon MC-23 cable ($49.95 at B&H, but you get two of the 10-pin ends on one cable). |
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Jim Paiva, Photographer
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Manchester | NH | USA | Posted: 9:54 AM on 06.13.05 |
->> I didn't have any 10-pin cables lying around so I went with one of these. It works well for my purposes.
Canon - Nikon Pre-Trigger Cables
http://www.canoncable.com/
I posted my first attempt on my member page. |
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George Bridges, Photographer, Photo Editor
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Washington | DC | USA | Posted: 10:50 AM on 06.13.05 |
->> Jim,
I put that web site in my post earlier as well |
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Jim Paiva, Photographer
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Manchester | NH | USA | Posted: 1:03 PM on 06.13.05 |
->> So you did.
Sorry, didn't read to the end of your post. |
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Richard Ritari, Photographer
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Gainesville | FL | USA | Posted: 8:26 AM on 06.23.05 |
->> Here is a detailed overview of the Nikon to Pocket Wizard Pre-Release cable that I built for a total cost of $37.24 from parts that were very easy to find.
http://www.sportsshooter.com/rritari/nikon_pw_cable/
I came up with a few designs, trying to keep it as simple and reliable as possible, and finally went with a small box with a switch in it. I am not sure if I need a switch, but I heeded Thomas Witte's sage advice and installed one.
I also put a small 1/8" audio jack in the box so that I can use a standard 1/8" mono audio cable to connect it to my Pocket Wizard. (I already had the cable for connecting to Alien Bees)
Richard |
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Paul W Gillespie, Photographer
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Annapolis | MD | USA | Posted: 9:27 AM on 06.23.05 |
->> Well I just ordered the MC 27 from B&H used for 11 bucks. Thanks guys for the info.
I am going to try and make this setup work with a quantum radio slave since that is what we have at the paper. I think the setup should be the same since the quatum has the mini phone jack on it. If I am wrong please tell me. |
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Paul W Gillespie, Photographer
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Annapolis | MD | USA | Posted: 11:23 AM on 06.28.05 |
->> Well I have received my MC 27 from B&H and I am about to go out and get the other supplies form Radio Shack to build the cable Richard describes but I have a few questions. The stay awake white cable is soldiered to the center post on the switch but it is connected to nothing else, will this keep the camera awake? In other examples I have seen this wire twisted with either the Yellow or Purple depending on whether you wanted to keep the camera awake. The braided wire is soldiered to all the switch posts on the other side, is this necessary? Do they do anything other than anchor the wire?
Thanks |
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Richard Ritari, Photographer
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Gainesville | FL | USA | Posted: 12:01 PM on 06.28.05 |
->> Paul,
The wire soldered across the posts on the other side of the switch is ONLY for the purpose of a strain relief.
As for the white wire, the switch itself connects the white wire to either the yellow wire or purple wire depending upon the position of the switch. (i.e. The white wire is ALWAYS connected to one of those wires by the switch.) If all three wires are connected together the shutter will fire.
Does that help?
Richard |
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Paul W Gillespie, Photographer
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Annapolis | MD | USA | Posted: 1:37 PM on 06.28.05 |
| ->> Richard thanks for both the post and the email. Now I just have to hone my soldering skills. |
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